The New Recruit
By Phil McBride

“Fresh Fish” is a fun term for the condition we all went through when we were first reeled in to this hobby. It’s the fresh fish who dash through sutlers’ row at their first event or two, and start buying armloads of clothing and gear. I was that way, and still have fond memories of shopping for my first outfit, and would love the chance to do it all again - only smarter this time. Thinking back, I made some really dumb purchases when I was a hyper-eager fresh fish, but, to be honest, I also bought a few inexpensive products that have proven quite serviceable. But it was a crapshoot, because I was too anxious to own the full kit to listen to the advice that was offered by the vets in our unit.
It’s expensive to get started as a Civil War reenactor. Every new reenactor is going to spend $1,200 or more on his first complete impression. Moreover, the suppliers of reenacting uniforms and equipment don’t make it easy to buy wisely. Like buying modern clothes, the variety of goods ranges from badly made cheap products, all the way up to museum quality, handmade products, at a high to very high price.
This range of options has made the “ten-foot rule” a hot topic. This rule is dear to the hearts of those sutlers, which rely on the sale of imported goods, usually bought incredibly cheaply from third-world producers. The ten-foot rule means that from ten feet away, a $40 Pakistani-made cartridge box looks like a $74-$105 American-made cartridge box. Up close the differences will be clear, but from ten feet, by golly, it does look like the American-made version. One reason is that Pakistani and Indian leather accouterments and belt straps are generally made from water buffalo hides instead of cattle hides. Buffalo leather is thicker than the 7 oz. cowhide leather used by the real Civil War contractors, making buffalo hide leather less pliable. As a result, up close, products made with buffalo leather don’t look, feel, or wear like accouterments made with cattle leather. Similar contrasts of materials and workmanship can be made about clothing and other equipment made overseas as “economy” products.
The dilemma is just where in this pool of pricing and quality should a fresh fish swim? Some new reenactors have deep pockets and some have a mighty slim wallet. Obviously, the ten-foot rule is more attractive the less hobby dollars one has. Nonetheless, there are some basic “hints” that I believe can assist all fresh fish (and we old stale fish) when outfitting ourselves.

Hint #1: Slow Down There, Hoss. You’re only going to want to buy this stuff once, because you are making a big investment, so take your time and do some comparative shopping. This is a long haul hobby, and if you miss having some new item for one event or even for a campaign season, it’s OK.
Hint #2: Listen to your pards who are veterans of a few seasons and who look the most like real Civil War soldiers when you all get together at drill. There are good reasons why some guys look more like the photos of the real old boys; so let them share their shopping suggestions with you.
Hint #3: If your unit has a particular impression, complete that impression first, before you start branching out. Reenacting is not a solo hobby. We all are members of groups portraying specific Civil War units. Each of us needs to lend his look to supporting the portrayal of the larger group.
Hint #4: There was NO generic Federal or Confederate uniform. Virtually all uniform pieces and gear evolved throughout the war for both sides in all theaters of operations. Those who seek the least expensive route and settle for a “generic” impression just look silly, because there was no such animal.
Hint #5: When you ask the leaders of your new unit about what coat or trousers to buy, and you are told, “Oh, anything will be OK,” it’s time to walk away and find a different unit that has uniform and equipment standards that are written and specific. You will not regret it. If you intend to be a credible reenactor-living historian, “anything” is certainly NOT OK.
Hint #6: Buy American-made stuff. The lowest priced items on any sutler’s website or in any sutler’s tent are most likely foreign-made to very unexacting standards. They will probably resemble the real item, using the ten-foot rule, but will not bear up to an inspection from one or two feet. Beyond that, cottage industries of American craftsmen are producing well-researched replicas of Civil War uniforms and gear. These craftsmen are part of our hobby, they are fellow American citizens, their efforts have made our impressions of Civil War soldiers more believable, and they deserve our financial support.
Hint #7: You don’t have to buy garments with hand-sewn buttonholes, but hand-sewn buttonholes are a good litmus test for quality. All buttonholes were hand-sewn in 1861-1865, because machines to do it had not yet been invented. Therefore, tailors and vendors who care about making and selling correct reproductions will do the extra work, and will charge a little more. If the cost is still too high, buy a garment with machine-sewn buttonholes and redo them yourself. It’s a chore, but it gets easier with repetition. More importantly, it’s like the fisherman who releases a good-sized trout after the catch. The act reflects a commitment to the hobby from the high road.

The table below gives price ranges from four unnamed, but reputable and popular sutlers for everything a fresh fish needs to complete his first infantry impression. The prices are based on American-made products whenever possible. “Economy products” have been avoided since those are generally the cheaply foreign made goods. One note is that although the prices on the chart come from “full-line” sutlers, there are many one-man sutler businesses, which are making high quality goods for reasonable prices. Most of these sutlers specialize in particular areas and most have websites. Listings of them and endorsements can be found on various reenactor websites.
I’ve listed eastern and western theater uniform variations. The differences were mainly hats instead of forage caps for western Yanks, and the style of jackets, and wool vs. jean wool for Rebs. Period images and ongoing research reflects a lot of overlapping uniform styles between theaters.
I suggest purchasing a rifled-musket first for three reasons. First, it’s an infantryman’s essential tool. You just must have one to play in this game. Second, it’s expensive and there’s no way around making that investment, so get it done. Third, it doesn’t take any research. There are really only two viable choices, the 1853 Enfield and the 1861 Springfield, and two equally acceptable brands, ArmiSport and EuroArms. The choice between the two weapons is essentially a personal preference, unless your unit’s impression is documented to have used one or the other through most of the war. Enfields are very dependable in the field, and were imported from England in large numbers by north and south. It’s also worth noting that the blueing on the metal of the Enfield makes it much less prone to rusting during wet reenactments. Due to a design flaw in the firing channel of both firms’ Springfields, they all seem to misfire from time to time. That’s a nuisance, since the Springfield was the most common and desired rifled-musket of the war. Regardless, in reenacting, the 1853 Enfield reproductions cost less, rust less, and misfire less than the Springfield reproductions. Hmmm, which to buy?
I’d say buy your headgear second, but that purchase should follow the examination of lots of period images of soldiers in the field, and checking out other reenactors. There are many vendors for kepis and forage caps, but kepis and forage caps don’t help much against rain and sunburn. Four companies dominate the Civil War period felt hat trade: Dirty Billy’s, Clear Water Hats, Tim Allen, and Tim Bender. All four have vocal supporters. You can also buy less expensive hats from most sutlers. In this one case, the chart reflects the prices of the four hatters named above.
The only item that I recommend be bought from a single specific vendor is the gum blanket made by C & D Jarnagin. I don’t know what they do differently, but their glue holds the seams together year after year, and in my experience, others do not.

Item Notes Price Range

Rifled Musket Enfield or Springfield, 3 band $427 - $510
Jacket – All Federals Fatigue Jacket-lined $105 - $125
Jacket–CSA Eastern Theater Richmond Depot II -wool $99 - $155
Jacket–CSA Western Theater Columbus Depot–jean wool, trimmed $130 - $179
Trousers-All Federals Sky Blue wool $80 - $99
Trousers – CSA Eastern Theater Wool $73 - $100
Trousers – CSA Western Theater Jean wool $99 - $113
Braces (Suspenders) Civilian, linen or cotton $12 - $35
Brogans With metal heel plates $100 - $115
Felt Hat – Federal Hardee Without brass $99 - $110
Felt Hat – All Confederates Lots of styles are correct $90 - $110
Forage Cap – Federal More common for Federals than kepis $30 - $65
Kepi – Federal & Confederate More common for CSA than forage caps $30 - $65
Canteen – Federal Issue With wool or jean-wool cover $40 - $75
Canteen–CSA smooth side drum No cloth cover, 6 – 6 1/2 inch diameter $28 - $45
White canvas haversack $15 - $20
Black tarred haversack $27 - $40
Cartridge box $74 - $106
Cap box $ 30 - $60
Bayonet with scabbard $30 - $40
Waist belt $17 - $33
Belt buckle Brass plate, many options $9 - $30
Cartridge box sling $20 - $30
Cartridge box sling emblem Brass, Federal only $9
Gum blanket C & D Jarnagin only vendor I recommend $48
Wool blanket All wool $43 - $65
Frying pan Small $16 - $28
Tin cup Many choices of style & sizes $10 - $24
TOTAL Approximately $1130 - $1610

About the author: Phil McBride is a “seasoned” member of The Alamo Rifles from San Antonio, Texas. The Alamo Rifles’ primary impression is Co. K, 6th Texas Infantry, Army of Tennessee, and the unit galvanizes as the 165th NY Zouaves. In the 21st century, Mr. McBride is assistant superintendent of schools in Lockhart, Texas.

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